Exploring MV on a Budget
On a recent summer day, I started out in Woods Hole at 10:45 am with $50 in my pocket, wondering how far it would take me. Here’s what I found:
Ferry tickets: $15 (round trip) bought me a 45 minute sea cruise. Heading up to the top deck of the Steamship Authority Ferry, I slathered on sunscreen and zoned out to the sound of sea gulls and the ferry’s bow slicing through the waters of Vineyard Sound. Debarking in Vineyard Haven at 11:30 am, I bought a $6 day pass to the VTA bus. This entitled me to a full day of unlimited travel, Island-wide. (Bike riders can bring pay $6 round trip to bring their bikes over on the ferry.)
"I zoned out to
the sound of
sea gulls
and the
ferry’s bow
slicing through the
waters of
Vineyard Sound"
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Getting Started
First stop was the MV Chamber of Commerce (closed weekends but a kiosk adjacent to the ferry terminal is open weekends), to pick up some extra info. Then, I headed next door to the cool and comfortable wisteria covered arbor outside of the Beetlebung Coffee House on the Beach Road to consider my options.
Here I enjoyed a house-made smoothie ($5.50) but could have chosen a cup of coffee and panini sandwich ($6.25) that also would save me from having to eat an early lunch.
Sightseeing & Sun Seeking
With my $6 bus pass the Island was mine to explore. I focused my attention on three options: Spend the day seeing the whole 100 square mile Island from westernmost Aquinnah to easternmost Edgartown using the schedule gaps to do some exploring; head over to the easy to access beaches on the Island’s north shore or slightly more remote south shore fronting on the Atlantic or do a little of both. The day was sunny and hot but I wanted to get in some sightseeing so I opted to take the bus directly to Edgartown for a quick look around, doubling back to Oak Bluffs’ beaches for some serious R&R and a swim.
Historic Homes & Harbor
To get to Edgartown, I boarded the #13 bus which passed through Oak Bluffs and skirted the Sound most of the way to Edgartown.
(The #1 takes a slightly shorter, but less scenic, route to the same destination).
After a look at the 19
th century
sea captain’s homes, the galleries and the harbor of this historic whaling port, I stopped at the Vineyard Gazette and asked if I could have a look around this former almshouse and home of the
Island’s oldest newspaper.
If the publishing schedule permits, this request is usually cordially granted. You can also pick up a free Best Read Guide for a detailed walking tour of downtown and directions to the cemetery where graves dating back to the 18
th century. Passing by the MV Museum on
School Street, I stopped to have a look at the historic Fresnel light in the Museum’s yard.
A Day at the Beach
Heading back to Oak Bluffs I got off the bus as it approached State Beach where is abuts The Inkwell (Beach), made famous by the 1994 film of the same name. The water looked clear and inviting and I wasted no time finding myself a spot. After about an hour I felt myself getting hungry. More choices: I could grab my cell and put a call through to Lola’s at 508-693-5007 for a wrap and a drink to be brought to my blanket (about $15-$20 with tip). Or, I could hold out and take my appetite over to the harbor where, for $19.95 ($14.99 on Tuesdays), I could hang out at Coop de Ville while enjoying the ultimate Island feast: steamed lobster and corn on the cob and a $1 lemonade. Total $22, including tax).
Budget Breakdown
| Round Trip Ferry |
$15.00 |
|
| All Day Bus Pass |
$ 6.00 |
|
| Breakfast Smoothie |
$ 5.50 |
|
Lobster Lunch at Coop de Ville
|
$22.00 |
|
| Ride on Flying Horses |
$ 1.25 |
|
| Total |
$49.75 |
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Lobster in the Rough
I opted for plan B and spent the next hour or so catching the breeze, watching the boats come and go and coaxing every last bit of succulent meat from the lobster’s shell. Coop de Ville also offers fried seafood which can save about $5 and offers a similar day-at-the-beach experience.
I took the long way back to the bus stop, enjoying a ride on the Flying Horses Carousel for $1.25, a stroll among the gingerbread cottages and shops in downtown OB. Instead of returning to Vineyard Haven I caught the 6:15 ferry out of Oak Bluffs, which got me back to the Woods Hole at 7 pm. Sun setting over Vineyard Sound: Free. Total vacation time: 8 hours, 15 minutes. Total spent: $49.75
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Before leaving home check for free events on MVOL.com’s calendar of events.
Bring your own bottled water to save spending $$$ just to keep yourself hydrated.
Though there are designated bus stops, you can flag down and re-board a VTA bus just about anywhere except for downtown areas. When in doubt, consult the driver.
Bikes can be carried on buses free of charge provided there is space on the rack.
For a map showing the Island's bike paths click here.
If you decide you want to stay an extra day check for walk-in rates usually available mid-week. The Nashua House in Oak Bluffs is a good place to start your search.
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